![]() also when turning for example right, the inside wheel will go more negative and this reduces your contact patch and will decrease grip. On a rally car this is especially bad because we have so much more wheel travel than tarmac cars. As the wheels go into bump or compression, the camber goes positive. ![]() When you have a strut type suspension then camber change is very noticible. A little more than a handful of friends have used the notching technique front and rear on cars, and I have considered it but right now with just fresh suspension parts I have the desired amounts of camber. ![]() My experience from taking with stock car hill climbers (probably a couple hundred more HP than the most powerful g5 car in the US) and my own experience rallycrossing a RWD car is that about -1 up front and -1.5 in the rear works quite well. 75 degree to go with either way, sometimes more. They dial in a base -1 degree then have about. Most of the people that I know that have done similiar to forward control arms have made a base adjustment to the control arm and then notched the strut mount for fine tuning and tweaking. For older Zcars there used to be a company that made kits that guided you through a similiar process although you drilled multiple holes at pre measured locations for adjustable rear camber (not exactly intended in its marketing for adjusting camber more like a fix for body sag and suspension fatigue to prevent excessive camber on road cars). This has been a long used trick and works for most all suspensions. >performance difference on gravel would result from getting a >I'd still be interested in hearing from others what kind of Andrew Havas and Mike Hurst come to mind as guys who had well sorted cars that went quick and didn't break.ĭennis could re-drill the inner pivots of the lower control It would not be difficult to duplicate by any reasonably skilled fabricator if your struts don't have them already.įinally, I'd talk to a couple Rx-7 gurus before going nuts on anything. I'm sure someone will come up with a picture here. Most decent/high end struts actually have sets of eccentric washers that can be subsituted in on that upper hole, each with the hole at a different offset to change the camber. Slotting the stut will give you a greater change than slotting the tower. If you don't want to spend "real money", you can slot the strut towers, or slot the upper hole on the mac strut where the upright bolts on. Ideally they would be caster adjustable too, but this isn't a dire necessity. To get camber where camber can not easily be gotten, the best bet is a high quality set of adjustable strut tops. Less on snow or ice, as you want as much contact patch as possible for braking/accelerating. More for slow/tight/twisty, less for fast/straight/open roads. Also, as the suspension compresses, you run into "pinching" of the tire, which puts stresses on stuff and tends to feed back through the steering.Įvery car I've every driven on dirt run's between neg 1.5 and 2.5 degrees of camber. Your car may steer and "feel" ok, but I can bet it doesn't stick worth a damn. >much improvement would we see by installing camber plates andĬamber is always important. >So, the question is: How important is camber on gravel? How
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